26 December 2008

Images from Christmas at the beach



Michael hanging out laundry on Christmas morning--this is more fun and satisfying than I ever would have guessed.

The kids playing with AJ's new science kit on Christmas morning.

AJ dancing to some internal music on Christmas morning

Classic multicultural Christmas/Hanukkah at the sea

The Christmas cookies you'd have gotten if you lived closer.

Have a beautiful Christmas day/ Hanukkah evening/ holiday season.

21 December 2008

Christmas spirit

The buying of a Christmas tree seems to be a yearly challenge. Last year’s was so ugly that once it was fully decorated, I had Michael and Rob carry it to a place in the house where I wouldn’t see it so often. I didn’t even know how beautiful fir trees were until I came to a country where Christmas trees are spindly and floppy pines. This year would be different, we vowed. We would drive the 1+ hours to Graytown where there was a Christmas tree farm, begun by Canadians, selling what they called “Real Christmas Trees.” Ah, but the weekends were so busy. So we punted and asked them to deliver us one, at great expense. And so it was, on Wednesday of this week, that we got the phone call…We had asked for a tree to be delivered? A 7-foot tall fur, brought to Paekakariki? Yes, that was us. Sorry. No tree, no delivery. Maybe next year.

Crushed, we regrouped and decided we’d settle again for one of the floppy native pines. Now we had to find one. In the US, Christmas tree stands pop up like mushrooms after Thanksgiving. In New Zealand, they spring up by the side of the road for an hour as someone sells the 20 pines from his backyard, and then are gone forever. Last year we wandered endlessly searching for something, and the best one we found was as horrible a tree as I could have imagined. This year, we couldn’t find any at all!

So Keith directed us to a driveway in a local suburb. He claimed that we’d see a sign by the side of the road, “Christmas Trees, $20.” And so we did. We pulled up the drive, braved the WARNING GUARD DOG sign and rang the bell. A sour-looking fellow, tank top stretched tight over belly, appeared on the other side of the fence. “All the good ones are gone!” he told us. “Only ugly trees left!”

Because we found all of the trees generally ugly, this was either a nonsensical point or else a serious worry. But we followed him in anyway. An adventure.

He led us past his house, past the doghouse where we let the sleeping dog lie, and down a path. Thick forest all around us, the clear cut for the new subdivision ahead showed what humans often consider progress. His lawn was punctuated by veggie gardens and a scattering of straggly pines, with a view of the subdivision on one side and cows in a pasture on the other. “All the good ones are gone,” he repeated in a thick Dutch accent, surprising for one who had been in this country nearly 50 years. “Maybe you find something that is not so bad.”

And so we wandered from tree to tree. He followed us with saw in hand, helpfully offering advice. “This one isn’t so ugly,” he’d say if we stopped at one he seemed to like. “At least it’s green,” he’d point out if we stopped at a seriously ugly one. Then more plaintively, “This is taking a long time, eh?” as we wandered around the floppy trees for the third time.

Perhaps it was the thick putrid scent of the cow manure and the festering stream. Or perhaps it was that four Americans were being led around by a Dutch man in shorts as they tried to pick their New Zealand Christmas tree in the summer heat. But finally we pointed to one (“at least it’s green”) and he took his saw and quickly cut it down (at least it’s fresh). We carried it up the hill, shoved it in the back of our car, and went out for Indian food at a strip mall. Ah, the pastoral life.

The tree, in addition to being truly ugly and almost entirely without branches (but it’s green and fresh), has one more appealing quality. Maybe because it is summer here, maybe because it grew in a meadow, it seems to be covered with enough pollen of something so that Michael is deathly allergic to it. But no matter. The windows open to the sea rain seem to have washed most of that away, and now that it’s decorated and we have come to understand the concept of “lipstick on a pig” in a whole new way, the tree brings a kind of unfamiliar Christmas sprit to the house. Friends try to come up with nice things to say about it after they get up from being doubled over in laughter (“it doesn’t interfere with the view of the sea” or “look how well your ornaments stand out”).

There are benefits to having a tree like this. This year we will not mourn when we have to take it down, will not weep when it becomes firewood. We don’t waste time gazing lovingly at its branches. There’s always a close-by source of amusement. And, my favourite, this tree provides the clear motivation to get ourselves to Graytown next year in early December and cut down a Canadian import. It is heartening to know that some things are not more beautiful in paradise.


Ps Thanks to all of you who wrote in response to my blog question last week. It is amazingly satisfying to hear from you and hear what you make of this whole enterprise. I feel you with me in a new way. Perhaps we can keep up more of a back and forth, eh? And craft this new life of mine—two years in now—together.

17 December 2008

Old friends and big waves

Today, the last full day of school, was the best boogie boarding I've ever done. After school, Naomi and Aidan and I--along with Anna, the beautiful German WWOOFer and Keith, who had just been on a conference call with me--headed to the beach. I've had some folks ask for us to show a video of what this looks like. Here it is.

Also today, we heard from some lovely new old friends. Check out the second comment on this blog entry . We look forward to our next time with Duane and Janet, and I'll never sit next to someone on the airplane with quite the same feeling again...

This from Aidan: Hello all it is good living here but we really miss you .It was great to visit you all.And to everyone that that we didn't see last year that we saw this year we miss you too.

This is from Naomi:
Hey Everyone!
I just have some free time, so i'm just saying hi. If anyone remembers, i used to have my own blog, and since school ends tomorrow (YAY!!!) I have decided that I will start blogging again as a sort of summer project thing. So my blog address will go here and you can see what I'm up to.

16 December 2008

Point inflection




We have come to another of those many inflection points on the journey from here to there. Last week was our two year anniversary of life in this new land. To celebrate, my work friends brought Afghans, a wonderful and odd kind of New Zealand chocolate cookie, to our afternoon meeting. I looked around the room at NZCER and thought that two years ago I was in a total identity crisis about what my life would be like and where I’d find friends. And now here I was, surrounded by people whose thoughts and opinions I valued deeply, people I have been thinking alongside for these past years. We passed around the cookies and laughed and worked together, and then walked down the hill through this familiar city to the familiar train together. In addition to being impressed with the quality of their thinking and writing, I also genuinely like these folks, admire their values, love to laugh with them, learn from every interaction. That’s a beautiful thing.

Then, to celebrate this occasion, I got a present out of the blue from Michael. In the US in October, Michael bought a MacBook for himself, a present to replace the work laptop he was leaving behind as he began a year-long secondment in another governmental department. Ever since, in the evenings when Rob and Michael and I sit in the internet café that is my living room, I’m the odd one out with my little grey Dell laptop next to their shiny white Macs. For our two year anniversary, Michael bought me a new computer for this new land, an amazingly sexy MacBook Air. I have coveted this computer since I first laid eyes on it, but never harbored a thought of actually buying it—this is a global recession after all. In our 21 years together, Michael has never surprised me as much as he did for our two-year anniversary present, and now the sexy computer sits in my lap on this familiar train.

And then today, the third marker of this inflection point. For a variety of reasons, when you are awarded permanent residence in New Zealand it comes in two different visas: one that allows you to stay here forever, and one called a “returning resident” visa, which allows you to come and go whenever you want. That one expires after two years, a way to make sure that you actually live here in NZ and don’t just bank the residence permit for use at some later point (like after you’re 55 and you can’t get this visa anymore). But if you’re good, and you live here and work here for the 2 years, that visa too converts to permanent. And so, now that our anniversary is behind us, Michael headed over to immigration, proved the various things that needed proving, and now we can come and go from New Zealand whenever we want for as long as we want. We belong here now.

These three inflection points have left me looking at this new land in a new way. My work seems to be here and the work in the US is gone. My house seems to be here and my house in the US is gone. Even my visa says I belong here, no more checking of expiration dates as I clear customs or board a plane to NZ without a ticket to someplace else. I have long wondered when I’ll really feel like I’m here, when I’ll stop feeling my strangeness, noticing how American I am in accent and culture. I have wondered when I’ll get to feel fully like I belong, either here or there.

The big lesson for me, though, is that it is a life-long journey from here to there. Through facebook, I’m back in touch with a huge number of former students, and they ask and ask, “Why New Zealand?” It’s hard for me to answer that question, or the inevitable follow up questions about how long we’ll live here and where we’ll go next. This is my home now. These hills are familiar, the sheep, bedraggled after several days of last spring rains, are the regular companions of my trip home, along with the kite surfers I pass as I go through exactly this part of the journey on a windy afternoon like this one. I love it here, love waking up to the sea and falling asleep looking at the stars. I don’t know if this is our home for the long haul or what comes next. But at this inflection point I am here and at this moment, here is home.

PS Here, after keeping this blog for 2 years—when I never thought I’d write here at all—I am at another inflection point. You may have noticed that I am writing here less. That’s because I have lost the plot about what this blog is for and whom it communicates with. If any readers have opinions about that, I would be grateful.

PPS Pics today of Aidan on Karen's bike (cool Karen!) and from the surf club on Sunday

08 December 2008

and counting...


It’s my two year anniversary today. Two years since our plane touched down early one Thursday morning in a cold and damp December. When we moved here, I said I’d be here at least 18 months. Seems like we’ve met that target. Wonder what’s next.


(“What’s next” turned out to be MORE nits in Naomi’s hair. This is a fitting celebration of our 2-year anniversary. For those of you who haven’t been following since the beginning, it’s worth a dip back into the horrors of December 06.)

07 December 2008

Goldilocks, the skylight, and the quest for perfection



On Tuesday I decided that I would make one last big move on the house and then call it really seriously finally done (for now). When we bought this house, the attic was just a cavernous space of an easy standing height, crossed with support beams, and occupied only birds’ nests. We wanted up there! We dropped the ceiling in the kitchen and hall to get one lovely room and a bathroom, a haven for guests. But over the rest of the house, the ceilings on the ground floor are high which makes the space above smaller. The other half of the attic has been an unfinished space—with reinforced floor and the beginnings of dry wall and one small window. On Tuesday, I decided we’d just make that one last change and then we’d be done.


So I called Dave, the Builder Extraordinaire. How much will it cost to put one skylight in that room and plaster it up? I asked. And when can you do it? Dave gave me a figure that was less than the cash I had on hand from my work in Sydney last week. And he said, I’ll come tomorrow and be done by next week.


And so it was, on Wednesday, that I was looking at my attic walls and pointing to the place where I wanted the skylight. I was on an international phone call and so I had very little time to get the placement right. I wanted it far forward so that this skylight wouldn’t interfere with what we wanted to do to the room later. And I wanted it low enough to give me a view. Thursday night, I looked. The skylight seemed to be in the right place forward, I thought. But it was so high. I’d never get a view from there. I agonized, discussed things with Rob and Michael, and wished for the view.


Thursday morning I laid out my problem to Dave. How much work would it be to drop the skylight another 2 feet so I could see out of it? “No worries, Jen,” Dave told me (I think Dave is the only person I have met in the last 15 years who calls me Jen). He dropped the hole and I stood in the opening, delighted with my imagination of the view I’d see once the roof was cut open.


On Friday, I got to experience that. Shaking of house, rattling of windows and suddenly sunlight streaming into an attic that had never seen the day before. And, through the hole in the roof, broad views of blue sea waves lapping onto green hills. Perfection. God how I love perfection. I had exactly what I wanted.


Have you ever noticed how short lived perfection really is? And so it was, when the skylight was moved into place, when it was perching, not in the hole as I had imagined, but on top of the hole to be flashed above the roofline, that I once again remembered how little perfection there is in the world. The depth of the roof plus the depth of the skylight raised the viewline up 8 inches. The only eight inches of my sea view. Now, from my eye level, I look straight into the edge of the skylight and can raise my eyes to see the tips of the hills bumping into the sky. To make things worse, now the window is too low to add head height to the room, and maybe, just maybe, it’s a little too far forward.


I am in agony over the 8 inches wrong here, the 12 inches wrong there. I brooded around the house yesterday, feeling stupid for having made Dave move the hole once and wondering whether I should have had him move it again when I saw that it wasn’t what I wanted. This bed is too hard, this one is too soft. How many beds to you try before you find one that’s just right?


I try very hard to remember that perfection is the enemy of the good, a lesson that doesn’t come easily to me. But, ah, the responsibility of choosing where to put a window in a windowless wall. Suddenly, the world seemed full of responsibilities that I wasn’t up to meeting. How do you pick the perfect high school for Naomi? What shall we serve our dinner guests, controlling for multiple allergies? How do we know which country is the best one for us to live in? What colour should we paint the walls that surround the too-low and too-forward skylight?


And it’s also totally absurd. I have a good friend who is trying to come to terms with his dying father. I have other friends trying to figure out their loves and make relationship choices for their futures. I talk with teachers who are trying to figure out what on earth to teach for the new curriculum. We are gifted and plagued by our ability to measure and weigh, to agonize over decisions and to hold future—and backwards—images. We decide which things are too high, too low, too hot, too cold, too hard, too soft. This is life, though, where we cannot get it exactly right each time. There are roof pitches to take into consideration (oops), unexpected storm clouds, whether she loves you back, the effects of the new leadership on morale. There are unexpected detours and a confusion of competing commitments.


I spend big swaths of my day looking at the sea, watching its relentless rhythm. I watch the clouds get pushed around by the wind, the green hills go yellow without rain. I should be getting natural patterns, should be understanding that this life I lead is small and the choices I make (do I go to the UK in March? What shall I make for morning tea for the kids’ Sunday school class tomorrow? How do I support a high school’s leadership team?) are just part of what the fabric of the next part of my life might be. Paul pointed out that perhaps it would have taken a president as disastrous as Bush to get one as astonishing as Obama. Each choice opens and forecloses, like the thrumming waves.


When Keith came over yesterday, having heard something of my discomfort about the window, he leapt up into the attic room and smiled broadly. “What do you mean no view?” he asked, looking out. “This is perfect!” I pointed out that it was perfect for some and useless for others and he looked at me confused. Putting my hand on his shoulder, I stooped him down until his eyes were level with mine, looking straight ahead at the edge of the skylight and into a sea-less hills and sky beyond. He burst into laughter. “The window isn’t too high—you’re too low!” he said. “Or we should raise the floor!” He pulled over a paint can for me to stand on, and there was my beloved view, swath of sea ruffling into hills. There isn’t an objective too high or too low or too hot or too cold, there’s just Goldilocks and the particular mood she’s in and the fact that she’s closer in size to baby bear than to Mama or Papa. There is only what is, a window there, a skylight there, the waves forming white crests in a silver sea.

06 December 2008

images of a week





Ok, there's a substantive blog coming, but first there is lunch to get for the kids and a cake to bake on this beautiful Saturday afternoon. So until then, here are pictures from the last week or so: Naomi at surf club, Aidan experimenting with a new hair style (like it?), me in Sydney, the grounds of the school fair last weekend (only, er, in the backwards order--not sure why).

01 December 2008

Creating spaces for change?

I spent a day last week in a school full of dedicated, passionate teachers, all interested in trying to figure out how to make their school the best place for students—now and into the future. These teachers were devoted and energetic and smart—and terrified and exhausted and overwhelmed. In a world without enough time to keep up with the demands of the present needs of students, parents, school leaders, community members, how on earth will teachers make a change to something different? After all, there may not be general agreement about exactly how schools should change to meet the demands of the future or exactly what those new schools will look like, but there is widespread agreement that schools do need to change somehow. The question I’ve become curious about isn’t even about what schools in the future should look like, but what schools today need to look like so that they can develop into schools for the future. How do we create schools as spaces where teachers to be able to experiment and make changes?

The key problem here is that teachers have neither the time nor the permission to make real changes. Schools are busy places, and teachers are devoted to the students they have right now and don’t want to take any chances on messing up those students’ lives in order to try some new fad. Parents, too, are pretty devoted to the school experience their children are having now and are not interested in sacrificing any quality their kids might have now for some future gains for other children. And yet, if we don’t want more of the same, and we also don’t want the inevitable risks that come with innovation, we seem pretty stuck.

People notice when someone tries something different and it falls flat. We can recognise a failure when we see it. Can we also recognise the time after which continued success, in the same way, will also be a failure? If cars today had the same safety features, gas mileage, and performance as cars 100 years ago, what seemed like success at the time might strike us as a big problem. It’s possible, though, that we might not notice at all that cars hadn’t changed much in all that time; it’s hard to see—and regret—innovation that doesn’t happen anywhere. If schools today are still educating some percentage of our children work in yesterdays’ jobs and live in yesterday’s society, maybe there’s a hidden failure there to which we should turn our attention. And it’s not just teachers who need to have their attention turned in this way; it’s all of us. Parents need to be more supportive of innovation, even when it doesn’t work. Principals need to support teachers to have new ideas and then get out of their way as teachers try things out. Community members need to be less reactive to the stories the press puffs up about chances teachers have taken that haven’t gone very well.

But all of this needs to be done inside a context where real children spend their time—not a social science experiment. We have to be smart as we are being bold, have to be cautious as we are being creative. These are hard mixes; even at companies where there’s plenty of time and money to spur innovation, there are all kinds of barriers to doing things a new way. I’d love to hear from those of you, reading this, who have some interests in this area—whether you’re school leaders, parents, teachers, community members, or students. What makes it possible to keep innovation going where you are? What do you wish you had more of? How could we think of ways you could get what you need? This is a hard thing we’re trying to do. It would be easier if we were thinking about it together.

19 November 2008

14 November 2008

lofty




Today was a teacher work day. Yesterday, the Council came and signed off on our house. They think it's finished now (they don't care about a couple of patches of paint that's needed etc). The combination of these two things meant it was loft day--the day that we could open up the lofts and move the kids upstairs. And so now they're tucked into their little beds upstairs, sweetly sleeping under their skylights as the sea thrums on. It's not a bad life.

08 November 2008

Miracle in a far away land

On my Wednesday I had a meeting in town. I woke up and thought, “people are voting now.” I walked the kids to school thinking, “people are voting.” I took the train into my meeting. People in lines, at voting machines, making phone calls. Voting voting voting. Who were they voting for??


We had arranged to watch the election results together at the pub in the village because a) I don’t have a TV and b) I wanted to be around other people. Melissa and the kids and I would be there, Rob would pop in from his job at the deli across the street, and Michael would join us when he got home from work. And so it was that I was there on my own, anxious, waiting for the kids to walk there from school and Melissa to show up from work. And there, at a table in an empty pub, I first saw Obama take Pennsylvania. I was surprised at the surge of emotion, at hot and unexpected tears. Here I was, alone in this bar, crying at the television.


The kids arrived, barefooted in the kiwi style, and Melissa blew in with Ohio. I ran across the street to update Rob, and realised that I didn’t want to be spending the most important election of my life as one of four people who cared about what was going on. When the TV news cut to pictures of Americans at the US Embassy election night party, I told Melissa and my kids that we were heading to Wellington. After some convincing, I scooted the rest of the group out the door. Melissa ran to get her daughter from a friend’s house; we headed to the train.


Little did we know that the train that leaves just after 4pm leaves at 4.04 rather than 4.08 (all the other trains leave at eight minutes after the hour). And so we raced for the train, and missed it by a breath. Until that minute, watching the train chug away and learning that the next one wouldn’t be there for 45 minutes, I hadn’t known how desperate I was to be near other people who cared as much as I did about the hoped-for election of the most exciting politician of my time. The weight of my loneliness in a country on the other side of the world from those voting pulled at me; I put my head in my hands and cried.


I wasn’t alone, though, and Melissa, who saw how important this was to me, piled us into her car and south we went, towards the embassy that would let me be with my people.


Or perhaps not. Michael called to tell us the news. Five minutes ahead of us, he had gone to the embassy party and been turned away. You had to have tickets. “Aren’t our accents tickets enough?” I asked. Nope. We met in the lobby outside the embassy party to regroup. A friendly New Zealander at the door smiled at my Obama button and asked us what we were doing.


”I’m wanting to be in a room filled with cheering Americans on this amazing night,” I told him.


“Well that room up there isn’t for you,” he said in hushed tones. “That’s a political event, lots of Kiwis and political folks. Not much cheering. What you want is the Democrats Abroad party at the Irish Pub on Cuba St. That’s where you’ll get your cheering Americans!”


We thanked him and headed up to Cuba St. where the red, white, and blue balloons marked the pub. Inside, it was bedlam. I stood inside the doorway, blinking to adjust my eyes to the dark and then, with a glimpse at the TV, to adjust my heart to the light. CNN had just projected an Obama win. I was in a room filled with Obama signs, with Kiwis and Americans eating and drinking and smiling at the TV. There were occasional yells as another state was called for Obama and then another. This is what I wanted, this communion of passionate people. This was my place.


The night is a blur punctuated by images I may well never forget. Watching McCain’s speech and hearing the cheers at his admission of his defeat and the silence in the room when he told us that America was the greatest country on the earth. This room full of people living in New Zealand had no interest in interacting with that statement, and there were low murmurs in response. There was the breathtaking moment when President-elect Obama (those, by the way, are currently my three favourite words to string together) took to the stage. There was Aidan, delighted with the Obama win, who really came to life with the promise of a puppy. “There’s going to be a puppy in the White House?” he asked There was the hugging afterward, everyone weeping, all of us overcome with the beauty of the moment and the magnificent possibility of the future.


Afterwards I realised who I was missing the very most, even in this room so perfectly filled with celebrating people. I called my dear friend Mark, with whom I had taught about race again and again, with whom I had talked through issues around this election and the new possibility of the world. He answered the phone from a crowd.


”Mark, this is your congratulations call from New Zealand!” I said into the phone.

“I can’t hear you!” he shouted

“MARK, this is a celebration on the other side of the world, in New Zealand!”

“Sorry! It’s too loud here and I can’t hear anything.”

“MARK!” I said, yelling into the phone, “IT’S JENNIFER IN NEW ZEALAND!”

“JEEENNNIFEEER!” he howled. “Oh Jennifer! BABY IT’S A MIRACLE!”


And I wept again to hear his joy, and to hear joyful yelling on the streets of Washington DC, where my dear friend and thousands of other celebrating people had wandered to the White House to mark the change.

Four years ago, I found myself nearly constantly in tears after the last election. I would be sitting at dinner and suddenly realise my cheeks were wet. Michael thought I was frightening the children, which was probably true. I had it bad.


This week, I find myself bursting into smiles without knowing that I’m thinking about President-elect Obama. And when I think about that beautiful family moving into the White House, when I think of those girls—my kids’ ages—and their fantastic mother and their new puppy, my eyes fill with tears again. These are not Bush tears, though. These are the tears that are about pride in my country, hope about what might come next, joy over a barrier that was knocked down decisively.


Here in New Zealand, we’ve just had an election today. Here my party didn’t win. Tomorrow I’ll deal with what that means. Tonight though again I’ll go to bed smiling. President-elect Obama. Welcome to the rekindling of the American dream.

05 November 2008

Dangerous liaisons

[I have been working on this entry for several days in snatched time between the many writing projects which are now nearly blissfully behind me. Really the thing that’s most important here is obviously the election—voting going on as I type—but here’s a diversion from earlier in the week.]


My partner Mark says that one of the most risky behaviours one can engage in while traveling is to speak to the person in the seat next to you on an airplane. If ever I mentioned any in-air conversation, Mark would tsk-tsk at me and remind me that a conversation gone bad was bad, without escape, for hours. He’d advise me to plug in ear phones, avoid eye contact, and, if worse came to worse, feign sleep in order to escape from the dreaded conversation of the seat mate.


So it was with Mark’s warning fully in mind that I took my aisle seat on the five hour flight from Dulles to LA last week. My seatmate kept to himself, reading a guide book, and I kept to myself, editing a journal article. But, because I am not Mark Ledden, I couldn’t help noticing that the book opened next to me was a NZ guidebook, an unusual reading choice on a flight to LA unless there’s a longer flight directly following. And so I engaged in that most worrisome of airplane behaviours: I talked first.


Duane (as his named turned out to be), answered. He was meeting his wife in LA and together they were flying (not on an Air NZ plane like me) to New Zealand for 10 days. No, he had made no plans so far and had only a reservation in Auckland for his first night in the country (he is my kind of tourist!). Yes, he was delighted to be sitting next to an American who lived in NZ.


We talked maps and travel plans. He had never been to NZ, but had lived overseas when his son (now 20) was small, in the Caribbean doing work for the Peace Corps. He was on the right side in the upcoming election and had already voted in the swing state of Virginia. He was lovely, with interesting things to say, a gentle presence, the ability to be alternately talking and quiet over the course of our hours strapped next to one another. Duane and I had heaps in common. We seemed drawn to roughly the same tourism activities (not surprising—someone going to NZ is not usually the bright lights and big city kind of person). We even did the same basic work; he was the head of leadership development for a US agency. We talked about a wide range of subjects—and, perhaps more importantly for this introvert pressed by writing deadlines—were often silent together—over the course of our 5 hours of forced-communion.


And so it was, as we prepared for final descent and tucked up our tray tables, I did something far more dangerous than beginning a conversation; I invited him to come and stay with us during his travels. I gave him my name and phone number, and off we went, our separate ways in LA.


As I left the United terminal to cross over to the AirNZ terminal, I was surprised to see Duane waiting for me with his wife, Janet. We chatted about some of the wonderful things she might look forward to, I reiterated my invitation to them both. My gut reaction about Janet was that she was open and lovely, warm and gracious. I plunged out into the warm autumn evening in southern California figuring that I’d never see them again but pleased that I had shared this tiny moment with them.


Five days later, I opened my door in a magnificent spring evening in Paekakariki and welcomed Duane and Janet in for, as it turned out, more moments together. They came bearing thoughtful presents—a bottle of wine, a bag of chocolate chip cookies, a purple flowering plant to grace the garden of our purple house. The kids, when they got home from trick-or-treating, were offered armfuls of art supplies and the gentle guidance of Janet, an artist and art teacher. Over dinner we talked about leadership and travelling, about bringing your children to new places to live, about US politics. They were model guests, playful and interested in the children, warm and grateful (even about a dinner that lost some zing as Naomi and Aidan got carried away by their trick or treating). They talked about the trip so far, and we poured over maps for the trip to come. We walked on the beach at sunset and watched the sliver of a moon sink towards the sea. They were overcome with the beauty of the place. It was hard to believe that these people, total strangers to us, fit so easily into our house.


Duane and Janet had intended to go on to the South Island the next day, but I warned them about an approaching gale. They revised their plans to spend a rainy Saturday in Wellington and a Saturday night cozy in front of our fire before heading off to the ferry in the morning on a sparkling Sunday. And so a second night in our living room, drinking excellent NZ wine, we were feeling grateful for hot fires and double-glazed windows, and for strangers come together to be friends. In the morning it was with real regret that we said goodbye to them, watched friends who were just yesterday strangers go off into a big world where we’ll probably never see them again.


The lessons of this story are subtle and not generalisable. The truth is that I rarely even share a sentence with the person sitting next to me on a plane, because planes are for working and not for chatting. It also could have gone very badly. They could have been difficult under longer circumstances, or Janet could have been justifiably wary over the invitation her husband received from a woman to spend the night at her house (ditto with Michael, by the way). But in that moment and with those people and with me at the exhausting end of a long and often-difficult trip, it was the perfect thing to do. I love being in the world in this way and meeting others who live in that same world. I love that just as I was feeling so far away from the familiar conversations and sounds and relationships of the US, I imported US reminders into my very own NZ living room as a bridge between my lives. I love that this afternoon, there will be other Americans I know—on the South Island—huddled in front of TVs in some bar or hotel lounge rooting for a man who will (I hope) win the presidency in the same week he so sadly lost his grandmother.


Sunday Michael and I went out to breakfast with some friends in town and came home and sat on the cool sand with Melissa to watch the kids in their first week of surf club. We walked home along the beach where I finished Michael’s birthday cake while Melissa and Rob cooked dinner. Here were longer-standing relationships, deep and better aged. Here were four Americans making their way in a new country, celebrating Michael’s 42 year on the planet. Our house, our lives, our hearts, contain space for old and new friends, for quick connections and lifelong ones. The world is vast, and it is also connected. Relationships are the most difficult thing we have, and they are also as natural as breathing. Love is a natural resource without any constraining factors.


Happy birthday Michael.

Happy one-year-in-New-Zealand anniversary, Rob.

Go Obama—let this be the start of a better world order.

02 November 2008

writing, swimming, celebrating




It has been a week of reports due, chapters due, journal articles due. I have been writing like mad (but I bet you're not interested in what I've been writing!). It has also been a week of Halloween costumes, birthday cakes, and strangers who have come to be friends. More on that tomorrow. Tonight, my belly full of birthday cake, I'll just offer pictures of the week...

28 October 2008

Resigned to change

In a window seat on the train again, snaking along on the wall above the sea and into Wellington. This isn’t quite the red line on the metro. I have passed through the timelessness of 24 hours in airports and in flying metal tubes, and I have arrived into this dream reality where the plane lands next to water dotted with surfers and I spend my first day home with my friends and family, weeding, pruning and planting vegetables in a sunny and sheltered garden, the sea audible as a background thrum.


I am dis-oriented in an internal way not obvious until I sit down and have conversations with myself. In the US, I took the rather startling step of resigning from my job at George Mason, a place I haven’t worked in more than a year, but a place that weaves itself through me. After a sad and lovely talk with my dean, I came out into a hot October afternoon to sit with Michael at the student center to debrief. As I talked about the conversation and sat in the lovely open space, college students and faculty milling about with their lunch trays, I realized that I would begin to weep right there if I wasn’t careful. We left as I tried to contain myself, tears welling up in my eyes.

What are those tears about, I have wondered to myself and others have wondered along with me. I remember my first time in that student center six years ago, me dressed up in a smart blue suit bought for the occasion, anxious and watchful in my first academic job interview. I remember meeting these IET faculty for the first time, impressed by the intelligence, the passion, the creativity of these folks. On the plane the next day, I called Michael to tell him the news. If offered this job I couldn’t imagine not taking it, if only for the honor of hanging out with these people for the next 20 or 30 years.


I was back in the building several months after taking the position. I had planned and taught my first summer session by then, sold my Cambridge condo, moved into a DC apartment. My career was before me, and I realized that it could be a career held solely at this university, the first time I had ever imagined a job that would last my whole career. I looked at students and faculty carrying lunch trays, and saw middle-aged men and women chatting with twenty year olds, heard banter and cheerful greetings. I thought of my father teaching nearly his whole career at one place, and wondered whether that would be me someday, grey-haired and carrying my lunch tray, saying hi to whatever crop of students was around. I found the notion remarkable and attractive.

Over time, the building became less novel. I at cheep and delicious middle eastern food there during faculty meetings, emailed friends and students from the comfy chairs upstairs. I went to receptions to celebrate new faculty joining us, and others to honor faculty retirements. I wrestled seemingly-intractable academic politics, and celebrated the possibility of a new way of working together. I watched trees go down and new buildings go up. I felt anxious, sleepy, angry, delighted, exhausted, dispirited, proud, and loving in that space. The space became mine; it held me and my colleagues and our careers.


It is mine no longer. It is ex-mine. I think it is the loss of one particular image of how my life might go that I am mourning. There is a vision for my future that still lives in me, and I have to understand how to let that vision go. It is a death of a future I’ll never have, and I’m mourning the loss of me in that role as I mourn the loss of my colleagues and students in their roles in my life. Now I have to figure out who I am in the ex-GMU world. While in the US, as I was ending some connections, I was attempting to deepen others, to try and figure out how to hold on to who I used to be as well as who I am in NZ so that I can figure out who I am becoming in this bi-hemispheric life. The GMU thing is one piece of who I am now not.


Here today there is a bright blue sun in the sparkling air. The fields have become neon green with the constant spring rains in my absence, and they are dotted with plump and playful lambs. Spring wildflowers bloom, yellow, pink, purple, along the rail lines. The sea, hazy in the spray-filled northerly breeze, marks its steady rhythm. The voices I hear around me are unlike mine, the politics they talk about is unfamiliar, about an election next week about which I have few opinions and almost no knowledge (the NZ national elections are four days after the US ones). I am sleepy and disoriented in the familiarity of this train ride through fields and past towns. Now we’ll head trough the tunnel that drives through the mountains and comes out in Wellington on the other side. Where do I come out on the other side? Which way is home?

24 October 2008

several thousand words




we had our pictures taken this trip, and here are some of the results. i miss you, my family. i can't wait to see you again!

23 October 2008

All buttoned up

I am sorry for my silence; it has been a wave of constant work from way past my bedtime to way before I’m ready to wake up. I am exhausted and ready to sleep for hours on the plane home; and also wishing I lived closer to some of these wonderful people whom I’ve been lucky enough to spend time with. And I wish I could be here on election day.

When I got to Bethesda, we went out and bought election paraphernalia: buttons, window signs, bumper stickers. Obviously the windows and bumper stickers won’t motivate any voters, but we thought we could at least be the KiwiAmerican voice fighting the good fight in Paekakariki. The buttons, however, we could put on and wear from the beginning. I pinned a white Obama/Biden button on my navy blue coat, and walked into the world with it. I am expecting that if (when?) Obama wins, the world will change and, I believe, become better place. What I was not expecting was how the world would change just by virtue of the button.

My first indication was in Chicago. The tall, dark, and handsome doorman to the fancy hotel joked with me as I went for the cab. He teased that he would let me take the cab just in front, as a kind of a gift. “Do you want to know why I’ll let you take this cab?” he asked with a twinkle. No, why? “Because I like your button!” He winked at me and shut me safely in the cab. When I went to get my hair cut, the white guy at the front desk took my coat and then, glancing at the button, lowered his voice, “I don’t usually talk politics with the clients,” he said, “but since I know we’re on the same side…” and he and I chatted about our hopes for Virginia to turn blue.

It doesn’t stop there. One day I was walking down the street, and a middle-aged white woman in a business suit smiled at me. “Go Obama!” she said. The next day in the grocery store, as I was agonizing over which pita chips to buy, one of the store employees, a youngish African man, came over. “Can I help you with anything?” he asked. “No, thanks,” I told him. “Good luck with everything,” he told me. “Er, thanks,” I answered uncertainly. Then he noded at my button. “I mean good luck with everything!” he told me, smiling broadly. “Good luck to us all,” I answered to his pleasure. Another connection made.

When Mom and I were at a shopping mall the next day, an African-American woman sat feeding her little son bananas with kindness and love, and we struck up a vague conversation. She finished her dinner and walked away, only to return a moment later with the familiar, “I like your button!” We three struck up a conversation about politics and hope and our excitement over the campaign; she told us she was a lawyer and would be working to keep the votes safe. We told her we’d do our best too. Another connection.

And another and another. Clients, friends, workshop participants, taxi drivers. Men and women of every race and every class beam at me and say something supportive. When the connection gets made, it is more than the simple Democrat-to-Democrat connection I’ve had in other elections with other buttons. This is about an entire ideology, and it’s about a new vision of what’s possible, a new vision of what the future could be. We are not just excited about a person or a platform, but about a whole new sense of possibility, a new image of how the world could be. I believe that this man (“that one”) has the complexity and compassion to lead us into a new relationship with the world, with ourselves, and he has the intelligence and the nuance to know how to make vision become real. And those of us who wear the buttons or the t-shirts or the bumper sticker, we’re not just supporting the same candidate, we’re supporting the same vision of the future, the same hope for our children and our planet.

Every once in a while, I stop and think, not about Obama’s brilliance, not about his compassion, not about the way he has the potential to transform our country’s image in the world. Every once in a while I think, this is a black man running for the most powerful office in the world. Even typing that now on a crowded Metro makes my eyes fill with tears. I want to celebrate: how beautiful is it that this country—which has struggled so long, so painfully, so violently with the issue of race—can finally put a black man in the oval office. How magical is it that with one election day, we can forever more put the first-ness of this behind us and know that we are not so blinded by race—or our unquestioned ambivalence about race—so as to pass up this chance at a man who could be an extraordinary president. Barack Obama is an existence proof, not only for the possibility of a black man in the oval office, but for the people in majority to have a new relationship to those who are not part of the majority. He is a brilliant person in his own right, and he is a symbol of how far we have come.

And sometimes I get shaky with rage about it all. How could we be so backwards, here in the new millennium, so that this is the first time this has happened? How is it that we have cut out of our field such a significant portion of our population? And then I think about how women have not been in this position before, an even larger percentage of the capable population than African Americans, and I am disgusted. What is wrong with this place? How have we failed as a people? How far do we still have to go?

And of course we have farther to go in some places than others. Jamie noted that in some parts of the country, you can’t wear an Obama button and still feel safe, and that an Obama sign in front of your house will get your house egged or molested in some other way. I can’t imagine what it would be like to feel the kind of racial hatred that clearly overcomes some of my fellow Americans. I can’t imagine the fear and loathing that comes up for people who worry about the redistribution of money to those less fortunate, as though that were a crime rather than a promise. I lie awake at night worrying about his safety and feeling somehow responsible for his daughters, who will become all of our daughters when he is our president. I am distressed that this is still a possibility, that there are still people who can believe that their racist perspective is somehow a legitimate American way to be.

But it looks like those people are in an increasing minority. Obama is not just keeping up with the last couple of white guys who ran for president; he is changing the electoral map and igniting a generation—or two or three. And from the response to my button, he is doing it with all kinds of people all over the country. I will leave this country believing that it is a more exciting place than the nation I left last April, that it is filled with people—quite possibly a majority of people—who share my values and my hopes for the future. I have not thought that in a long time. I suppose I just had to push the right button to find out the truth.

17 October 2008

Cycling


What is it about these trips home that make me feel like a time traveler, that have me spinning through life cycles and making my way, dizzy, from one event to the next?


Last week we drove up the Thruway to my grandparents’ house. We sat at their kitchen island—as I have been doing since I was Naomi’s age—and ate tuna fish sandwiches on white bread. I heard stories about my grandma’s childhood in Ireland; Naomi and Grandpa talked about math. We looked at our house in New Zealand on Google Earth. Two uncles, an aunt, and a cousin stopped by (low yield for a family with literally dozens of people in it but we gave them little notice). I can remember evenings filled with people at Thanksgiving, with barely enough room to reach for vats of mashed potatoes or platters towering with turkey. Now the house, twice expanded, contains thousands of hours of memories—not just mine (not mostly mine) but of the dozen children and 30+ grandchildren and now the great grand children who eat tunafish at the counter and swim in the pool (new since I was an adult) in the summer. The refrigerator holds pictures of babies I didn’t know were even a twinkle in their parents’ eyes, of families grown enough to be unrecognizable. This is a big family, and I live far away. Still, when my grandmother tells stories about her glass-cutting relatives in Ireland, I feel a kind of childlike delight. When my grandfather twinkles with a smile saying, “Come on, Jenny, let me show you something,” and walks down the hall to his study, I follow him with the kind of anticipation I had when I was Naomi’s age. And when I leave them I wonder—as I do when I leave anyone, but harder—when we’ll see these lovely people again.


A few days later I sat around a big table at my Aunt Patty’s house. Here, on the other, smaller side of the family (Dad has only 6 siblings), I know all the cousins and their children, and there are no grandparents left to tell me stories or show me mysterious gadgets. On Saturday there was a little gathering for us Kiwibergers—medium yield for this family with three sets of aunts and uncles, four first cousins (and partners) and three first cousins once removed. Aunt Patty was the one I spent the most time with as a kid because she was the mom of Tara, my favorite cousin. When I was a kid, I lived farther away than nearly any of my cousins, and I lived with my mom. This meant that I wasn’t at the regular family events and didn’t see this closely-knit family as much as they saw one another. When I was there it was a major party time, and livingrooms would be filled with adults talking and dandling babies on knees or at breast, kitchens with (mostly women) chopping, mixing, cleaning, and family rooms or bedrooms filled with cousins making up games or plays or just zooming around the house. I loved these gatherings, loved racing through the living rooms to catch a glimpse of beloved aunts and uncles. I loved slowing down through kitchens to see whether I could spy the plastic-wrapped chocolate chip cookies someone had brought, hiding until everyone had had enough dinner. And beyond it all I loved the time with my cousins, the stories we told, events we organized, silly games we played. Tara and I, as the eldest, kept the little ones under control, half babysitters and half queens of the domain.


Since the last time I was in the US with my kids, there has been a distinct shift. I’ve had three more cousins in my generation head to college, one more get engaged and another married. There are two more babies on the way. Only two of my aunts and uncles have kids home at all anymore; the rest are talking about their grandchildren. Of the 19 cousins in my generation, only three are still at home, only one a kid.


This means that my aunts and uncles aren’t the generation who produces the children and checks up on the cousins racing the house; that’s now my generation. The cousins that make up stories and play games? Those are my kids’ generation, with Naomi the eldest of the bunch, leading her smaller cousins around, keeping the peace, being the tattletale. The aunts and uncles sit in the living room and tell stories about their kids in college, pass albums of weddings, wax lovingly about grandchildren, and are beginning to look rather like my grandmother as I remember her most strongly.


In some ways, this is just part of the family cycle, right? It is the uncanny way that two best cousins produce children who love one another and pal around at the next generation’s family event. It is the echo of the mother in the voice of the daughter, the taste of a meal we have had at family gatherings for my whole life, the rhythms of family patterns and habits held steady over time.


But I keep hearing my father’s voice, deep with melancholy, after Naomi told him she couldn’t wait until she had silver hair like his. He looked at her, golden hair shining in the Grand Canyon sun, and said he thought she’d be beautiful that way. And in his mind he was thinking, “but I’ll never see it.”


This is a one way cycle, the patterns of the generations repeat in a beautiful and encouraging way, but we only get one ride around. My aunts and uncles are taking my grandmother’s place, but Grandma left that place more than three years ago. The last time I looked up, I was amazed that I was joining the generation of my aunts and uncles and producing children. Now, more than a decade later, I realize that I was actually replacing that generation, stepping into the major childbearing role into my large and growing family. At Aunt Patty’s, I realized that I have stepped out of that role. No more will new baby announcements come from us. We are moving on into the comfortable and beautiful time of raising these lovely children of ours rather than producing more of them. We are crossing thresholds we cannot cross back over. This is not going to be news to anyone, and at the same time, each time I get a real sense of it, it is a punch in the stomach. On this trip, I am getting a lot of punches.

A mid-trip, mid-life crisis? I finish this blog more than a week after leaving Patty’s, in a swank hotel in Chicago where I’ll do work I enjoy with people I enjoy. I have a beautiful life, and it would have been unimaginable to me as one of those cousins racing around my Aunt Patty’s house 25 years ago. I love my life, which makes my increasing awareness of its temporality all the more bittersweet. Would I like to be a kid again, with all this in front of me? Absolutely not. I guess my central question is about how to maintain the knowledge that each day is a gift—a gift we will never get again—and live my limited time on earth fully. All of these are clichés. I remember thinking in college that nearly every poem is about love or death. Or both. In college, this death obsession seemed macabre, a constant restatement of the obvious, a focusing on the dark rather than turning toward the light. Now I feel it differently. It once seemed to me that Andrew Marvell’s famous poem was a pick up line, a clever, if cheap, come-on at a party. Now it strikes me (perhaps additionally) as the truth:

But at my back I always hear
Time's winged chariot hurrying near;
And yonder all before us lie
Deserts of vast eternity.

Remembering about my one way ticket helps me focus on what I want from this short ride. In the eyeblink of parenting my children, what do I want them to take with them? In the flash of a career, what do I want to accomplish? In the ringing notes of my friendships and loves, what do I want to experience and to give? I don’t want to notice my mortality constantly, but neither to I ever again want to forget it. The end of playboy Marvell’s poem is a call, not just to lust, but to life:

Let us roll all our strength, and all
Our sweetness, up into one ball;
And tear our pleasures with rough strife
Thorough the iron gates of life.
Thus, though we cannot make our sun
Stand still, yet we will make him run.